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September 29, 1999
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The Winnebago
Story, Part III Half Dome and Half Dumb: I got up early the next morning (9-29),
had breakfast and hit the trailhead by 8:15am. Deron and Candi had left a few minutes
before me, and I caught up with them near the top of Nevada Falls. We stayed together the
rest of the way, enjoying companionship and desiring moral support for the last part of
the climb. The last part turned out to be a couple of different things. First was a 300
400 climb up steep rock steps to one of the shoulders of Half Dome. This was
not for those who fear heights, as the view to the sides showed a drop of 4000 to
the valleys below. Once on top of that, we left our packs (including my jacket with some
trail-mix in the back pocket) and headed for the cables. This 700 climb is
accomplished by pulling yourself up between two cables, step by step. The
"steps" are boards at the base of each cable pole anchor (spaced about 15 feet
apart). The rock is a bit slippery, the cables are smooth, and the angle of ascent is a
legitimate 45 degrees (looks like at least 60 degrees, especially on the way down). I am
not afraid of heights per se, but I have a definite fear of being on the edge of a
precipice, and I spent 700 on the edge of a nearly mile high precipice. I just
looked straight ahead at the next "step" and waited until I got to the top to
enjoy the view. The only similar experience I can use in an attempt to give someone a good
feel for this is to imagine walking up (and back down) the first hill on a very large
roller coaster (twice as high as any that now exist). We all made it way to go
Candi, Deron and Gary! The top was well worth the effort (physical and mental) that it
took to get there. We stayed a half-hour or so, enjoying what has to be one of the best
and most satisfying views available in any of the National Parks. When we got back down to
our gear, I discovered that some critter (probably one of those cute, fat squirrels that
are everywhere in Yosemite) had discovered the trail-mix in my jacket and had chewed
several holes in the pocket. (Later I bought a patch, which I will sew over the biggest
hole, that shows Half Dome and says "I made it to the top.") It took us about 4
hours to get back to camp, then we headed for the showers and a pizza celebration (both
badly needed).
Would I recommend the Half
Dome climb to others? Absolutely, although with some reservations. It is a 17-mile round
trip from about 4000 elevation in the valley to 8836 elevation at the top. The
Park brochure describes it as extremely strenuous, and I agree, so you really need to be
in good physical condition. Also, its not for people who have a strong fear of
heights. But it is a real character builder, and a chance to push yourself to some new
limits physically and mentally. If you do it, its one of those things that
will remain indelible in your memory. |
This might be a good time to tell the Ahwahnichi
story of the creation of Half Dome. "Long ago two travelers, Tissiak and her husband,
Tokoyee fought with each other. He became so angry that he began to beat her; enraged, she
hurled her basket of acorns at him. As they stood facing each other, they were turned to
stone for their wickedness. The acorn basket (Basket Dome) lies upturned beside Tokoyee
(North Dome) and the rock face of Tissiak (Half Dome) is stained with her tears."
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