G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

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October 25, 1999

The following day (10-25) was my day to visit Arches National Park. I decided on the way to the Visitor Center that I would seek some advice there regarding the advisability of going to the Black Canyon this time of year. I got some good help from a Ranger Supervisor/bicyclist named Sandy. It turns out that the Black Canyon is located on the edge of the same high desert that I’ve been spending all of my time in lately. It’s at about 8000 feet elevation, but is only 15 miles east of Montrose, Colorado, which is at about 6000 feet elevation. The weather forecast was favorable for the next few days.

Now I could make a final decision – and hopefully an intelligent one. Checking my maps again, I figured that if I "pushed it" a little, I could get to Montrose in two days, then could leave my stuff at a campground and do a one-day "up and back" visit to the new park. Actually, I had pretty well already decided to go to the Black Canyon before I ever got to the Visitor Center. It came down to the same rationale I used for this yearlong journey in the first place. In simplest terms, I knew I would regret it later if I didn’t do it.

Arches is a great National Park. I was kind of expecting to ride through a big valley and see a lot of arches from the road. However, I soon found out (when I saw the road go up and up and up behind the Visitor Center) that I was going to have to work hard to see the great sights here. The main road has several big climbs, and the two "side" roads are up and down as well. For the most part, the arches and other features are not visible from the road or the parking lots. I walked a number of trails to see some of the best sights. Most (maybe all) of the arches have names, so it’s fairly easy to associate arch names with photographs. At least it sounds easy now while it’s fresh in my mind – may not be so easy in a few days when I try to identify the photographs. But who besides me will know anyway – I mean I have such great credibility after the Mt. Rainier story.

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I first rode to the north end of the park (about 18 miles) with the idea of working my way back to the entrance from there. At the north end, near the campground, is the Devil’s Garden Trailhead that includes several of the best known arches in the park. Those that I saw and photographed include Landscape Arch (306’ span is the longest in the park), Wall Arch, Partition Arch and Navaho Arch..

From there, I took a side road to view Delicate Arch, perhaps the best known feature of the park (after all, it does appear on the Utah license plate). I could only spare time to view it from a distance, as the hiking trail that goes right up to (and under) the arch would have taken me a couple of hours.

I then came back to the Windows Section of the park, and took hiking trails to view Turret Arch, the North and South Windows and the Double Arch, which was probably my personal favorite. The longer part of the Double Arch has a span of 144’ (third longest in the park) and a height of 112’ (highest in the park).

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The arches in the park seem to have formed in two ways, although geologists admit the evidence is somewhat circumstantial. The Double Arch is what is known as a pothole arch. It began as a depression near a narrow cliff face. Pools of water collected and slowly deepened the pothole. Over time, water seeped through the cliff face, forming alcoves on the two opposing sides. Eventually, the enlarging pothole met the roofs of the expanding alcoves, and openings were created. As erosion continued, the arch matured – the openings got larger and the arches got narrower. In time, it will reach a point where the arches cannot continue to support their own weight, and they will collapse.

Most of the arches in the park were created in another way, however. These are made of either Entrada or Navaho Sandstone, and came about after the sandstone had been eroded into "fins" by the forces of wind and water. On many of these fins, wind and water continued to erode the sandstone until the cementing material gave way and chunks of rock fell out. This caused many of the fins to collapse, but where just the right degree of hardness and balance occurred, the fins survived without their missing sections. These, of course, became the famous arches.

The park is dynamic. There is much evidence of new arches being created, but this kind of change occurs slowly, so don’t hold your breath waiting for something new and dramatic. On the other hand, in 1991, a slab of rock about 60 feet long, 11 feet wide and 4 feet thick fell from the underside of Landscape Arch, leaving a precariously thin ribbon of rock. I don’t know that I’ve said this about many of our nation’s scenic wonders, but this is one arch that may not be there if you wait too long to pay it a visit.

Besides the arches, the park has a lot of other interesting formations including the Three Gossips, which I had mistaken for the Three Wise Men with back-packs (hey, they had to carry that Myrrh somewhere). There was also just a lot of beautiful, colorful scenery.

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My park brochure doesn’t tell me just when this became a National Park. I know it was a National Monument first, and it may have been upgraded to a National Park in 1949. At least I saw a plaque honoring a superintendent that had served here from 1949 to 1972. History, smistory (spell-check has no suggestions for that one!) – just come out and see this place before Landscape Arch is gone.

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