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November 9, 1999
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I started the following day
(11-9) with a trip to Walnut
Canyon National Monument. This was six miles back toward Holbrook, but I was running
far too late to stop on my way by yesterday. Its a beautiful forested canyon that
was home to some close relatives of the Anasazi from about AD 600 to 1250. These people
were called Sinagua, Spanish for "without water", as a tribute to their ability
to turn a semi-arid region into a homeland with dry farming techniques. Like the Anasazi,
the Sinagua transitioned from pithouses to cliff dwellings, and also like the Anasazi,
disappeared without a written history about 1300. Its highly likely that they
assimilated into the Hopi culture. Walnut Canyon was left undisturbed until the 1880s when
the railroad brought souvenir hunters who stole artifacts and destroyed structures such as
the cliff dwellings. This brought a call for protection of the canyon by local residents,
and in 1915, Walnut Canyon was declared a National Monument.
I then headed north toward
two other National Monuments Wupatki, another Sinagua site, and Sunset Crater Volcano,
where I expected to camp for the night. The campground at Sunset Crater was closed for the
season, however, which left me with a large problem no place to stay for the night
in the vicinity of the Monuments. The nearest possible place to stay was in Cameron, about
35 miles north of the Sunset Crater. Since Sunset is only about three miles off the main
road and Wupatki is 18 miles further off the main road, I decided to bypass Wupatki for
this time. I found Sunset Crater to be quite interesting, however. The main feature is a
cinder cone volcano, standing about 1000 feet high, that was built from the ground up in
1064 and 1065. A cinder cone volcano is created when solidified rock falls around the
central vent and builds a cone. The parts I liked best, though, were the lava flows that
occurred in 1064 and 1180. Today, these are wide, deep blankets of cinder rock, but back
then, they were molten flows that burned everything in their path and must have scared the
heck out of the local Sinagua. The other volcanoes Ive visited on this journey, Mt.
St. Helens and Lassen, did not have this kind of lava flow. The last volcanic activity for
Sunset Crater was in 1250 when red and yellow cinders shot from the vent and landed on the
rim. The colorful glow reminded people of a sunset, hence the name Sunset Crater. |
When I got to
Cameron, I found that there isnt any campground. There is a motel, but its
fairly expensive, and a Mobile Home Park where RVs can park for the night. I talked
them into letting me stay at the Mobile Home Park. There was no shower, no restroom, no
picnic table and no decent tent site, but the cost was only $5, and I could use the
restroom at the restaurant until 9:00 at night, and then again at 7:00 in the morning. It
worked out okay. There was a little bit of bathroom humor, however. I was cleaning my
glasses in the mens room after breakfast when I heard a guy in one of the stalls
says something like "arrgg." I was still there when he came out, and he
explained that a scorpion had attempted to climb up the inside of his pant-leg. He showed
me the evidence, now squashed on the floor. It looked like a scorpion to me, although it
was smaller than I thought it would be. Im very, very glad it wasnt me
the sound would have been a lot higher pitched than "arrgg." |
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