G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

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November 7, 1999

The next day (11-7) I headed west along I-40 to Petrified Forest National Park. Once there, I rode from one end to the other (about 28 miles), then exited at the south end about 20 miles from the town of Holbrook.

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Petrified Forest is really two parks in one. The northern end contains a large section of the Painted Desert, which then stretches northwest toward Grand Canyon. The Painted Desert is a rugged badlands type of desert landscape that has been painted in beautiful hues of red, pink, blue, purple, white, gray and black by that most exceptional of artists – Mother Nature. The colors come from the chemical composition of the sediments that formed the rocks. Iron oxides create the red and pink tones; manganese produces blue and purple; various carbons produce black, white and gray. There are several overlooks in this section of the park, all with great views of this colorful landscape.

Heading south from the last of the overlooks, there is a long, narrow corridor of parkland that passes over I-40 and the Santa Fe Railroad before entering a butte and mesa area where the petrified forests lie scattered and silent. They’re rocks now, mostly quartz, but 225 million years ago (late Triassic Period) stood tall as Araucarioxylon, Woodworthia and Schilderia trees. In the time of a great flood, the trees fell and were washed by swollen streams onto a floodplain. There they were quickly covered by silt, mud and volcanic ash, which cut off oxygen and slowed decay of the trees. Gradually, silica-bearing groundwater seeped through the logs and, bit by bit, replaced the wood tissue with silica deposits. Eventually, the silica crystallized into quartz, and the logs were preserved as petrified wood. Later, the entire area sank and was covered by freshwater sediments, then rose again, only to be exposed to the forces of erosion that have now uncovered the logs we see today in this National Park. There is also still much more below the surface - up to 300 feet of fossil bearing material remains in some areas of the park.

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After this area was "discovered" by Army surveyors in the mid-1800s, the petrified wood became "easy pickings" for local farmers and ranchers, as well as sightseers from back east. Soon, however, area residents realized that the supply of petrified wood was not endless, and began to petition the government to do something to protect what remained. John Muir, who discovered fossil bones here in the winter of 1905/1906, was one of those who helped convince President Theodore Roosevelt to preserve the area as a National Monument in 1906. In 1932, 2500 acres of the Painted Desert were purchased and added to the Monument, and in 1962 it became Petrified Forest National Park.

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At the museum, I found the bones of a Placerias, a 2 to 3 ton mammal-like reptile that roamed the area in herds about 225 million years ago.

From the south entrance to the park, I headed west along US Highway 180, the same way Dad, Mom, Dave and I traveled 35 years ago. I have retained two distinct impressions of this portion of our 1964 trip. First, it must have been late in the day when we left the Petrified Forest because we ended up pulling off to the side of Rt. 180 and camping there for the night. I saw lots of potential "pull off" spots, so all I know is that I passed the spot where we camped for the night. My second recollection is of a brown building in downtown Holbrook where we had breakfast the next morning. I recall seeing a Trailways Bus for the first time in front of that building. Today, as I rode through Holbrook heading for my campground, I’m pretty sure that I saw the same building.

The National Park Service is getting serious about protecting its remaining petrified wood resources from amateur thieves who think it’s okay to stick a piece in the pocket and take it home. Each visitor now gets a piece of paper with their park brochure that explains the seriousness of the problem, advises the illegality of taking anything from the park, and announces a fine of $250 for doing so. They also promote a program based on the "turn in a (drug) pusher" concept. This one is "turn in a wood thief". You would like to think that people would just know better, but they don’t. Besides, anyone who wants a piece of petrified wood can buy one from several sources right outside the park boundaries.

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After what I said recently about counting road-kill for the weird people at the home station, I was afraid Becky and Ria wouldn’t believe that I’m taking this task seriously. So here is photographic evidence that I’m doing my job. I picked one that the ravens hadn’t found yet, so it wouldn’t be gross

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