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January 8, 2000
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I left Artesia at
7:40 this morning (1-8) and it was very frosty. I
dont know what the temperature was, but I do know that despite the sun rising at
about 7:00, it was still frosty by the time I reached the city of Carlsbad just after
10:00. Along the way, I took a photo of an
albino tarantula. Well maybe it was just a frosted
weed. After brunch in Carlsbad, I headed
toward Whites City, the gateway town to Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Just south of town, I saw and photographed what
may have been a Mother Ship (big flying saucer) that was headed in the
direction of Roswell. Well maybe it was just a
cloud. |
The reason I left Artesia so early is
that I wanted to arrive at the Caverns before 2:00, which is the last time of the day to
take the long tour through the natural entrance. After
that, I had until 3:30 to take the elevator down to the Big Room, the main
attraction of the caverns. I was doing very
well against the clock until I left Carlsbad, then I ran into a fairly stiff headwind. I felt that I would still be okay if I got to
Whites City by 1:00, because it is then only 7 more miles to the Park Headquarters. I made it there just about 1:00, but then found
out that the last 7 miles (really 6.8) were all uphill.
I left at 1:05, then lost a couple more minutes when I had to stop to shed
my fleece jacket because I was getting too warm going uphill. I peddled, looked at my watch, peddled some more,
etc., etc. At 1:45, I figured I only had only
about a mile and a half to go, but the road took a horseshoe bend and got steeper. I thought about settling for the elevator trip,
but didnt really want to do that, so peddled on as fast as I could. At 1:52, I reached the 6-mile post and needed a
brief rest break, but didnt take it. I
pushed over the top and went the last quarter of a mile downhill to the Visitor Center. I leaned my bike against the bike rack and glanced
at my watch 1:58. I virtually ran to
the entrance, through the lobby and to the roped-off ticket counter. As I stepped between the ropes, a Park Ranger
picked up a microphone and announced that there would be no more natural entrance tours
for the day. Im not sure what kind of
look crossed my face, but the ranger looked at me and said not to worry, I was okay. So over 6 hours after leaving Artesia, I arrived
at Carlsbad Caverns with all of about 2 seconds to spare.
Whew!
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Most of the cavern tours at Carlsbad
these days are self-guided. The paths are
paved, there are numerous (lit) displays, and there is just enough light to see where you
are going. I especially wanted to take the
tour through the natural entrance to more fully appreciate the depth of the caverns. It took me a mile or so of steady downhill walking
(through some really nice scenery) to reach the Big Room which is about 750
feet below the surface. The Big Room really
is big it covers over 14 acres (largest cavern room in the Western Hemisphere), and
really rates a giant WOW in my book. A mile |
long trail winds through scenic
splendor after scenic splendor stalactites, stalagmites, soda straws, draperies,
flowstone, columns, cave pearls and much more. The
lighting is beautifully done all indirect, and highlighting everything from small
displays of soda straws to the ceiling of the cavern.
Its a virtual fairyland down there certainly one of the most beautiful
14-acre spots in the entire world. The Big
Room is also wheelchair accessible, and so open that no one should feel claustrophobia. I took a lot of photos, but they just wont
do justice to this place. |
Carlsbad Caverns
Photographs, Set A

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Carlsbad Caverns
Photographs, Set B

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The creation of Carlsbad Caverns began
250 million years ago when a 400-mile-long reef was formed in an inland sea that covered
this region. When the sea evaporated, the
reef was buried and remained so until just a few million years ago when the area uplifted
and then erosion exposed the reef rock. Rainwater
then began to seep down into cracks in the reef and started the process of dissolving the
limestone and forming the underground chambers. The
process was aided by hydrogen sulfide gas migrating upward and forming sulfuric acid as it
contacted the groundwater. Millions of years
later, the huge passageways were formed, and the decorating process began. This was (and still is) literally a drop by drop
process. As rainwater percolates through the
bedrock, it dissolves a little limestone, absorbing a bit of the basic ingredient needed
to build most cave formations the mineral calcite.
As the drop finally enters the cavern, carbon dioxide escapes into the cave
air, and the dissolved calcite is deposited in crystal form. After hundreds of thousands of years and billions
of drops, thousands of fantastic formations have been created. I can testify that the process is still at work,
as I was dripped on several times during my tour.
The other interesting aspect of
Carlsbad Caverns is its bat population. Hundreds
of thousands of Mexican
Free-tail bats live in the Caverns during the summer months, sleeping during the day
on the cavern ceiling, packed as tightly as 300 per square foot (and I thought my tent was
crowded). Each night, at dusk, they make a
mass exodus from the natural entrance to forage for food (moths and other flying insects)
in the Pecos and Black River valleys. This
mass exodus has become a major viewing attraction for Park visitors over the years. In fact, it was this nightly bat exodus that led
to the discovery of the cavern in the late 1800s. The
cowboys who made the discovery also soon learned that there was an economic value to the
cavern. Tourists, you think nope, bat
guano. Between 1903 and 1923, over 100,000
tons of guano was excavated from the cavern to be used as fertilizer, mostly in the orange
groves of California. One of the early cave
miners, Jim White, began to explore the caverns in his spare time, and soon told stories
of fascinating underground formations. His
stories were viewed with skepticism, however, until a photographer accompanied him on a
trip into the cavern in 1915, and the resulting photos were displayed in the nearby town
of Carlsbad. In 1923, the U.S. Department of
the Interior sent its own inspector to determine if the Carlsbad Cavern was indeed an
outstanding natural scenic wonder. The
inspector, Robert Holly, wrote in his final report:
I
am wholly conscious of the feebleness of my efforts to convey in words the deep
conflicting emotions, the feeling of fear and awe, and the desire for an inspired
understanding of the Divine Creators work which presents to the human eye such a
complex aggregate of natural wonders
. Later
that year, Carlsbad Cavern was proclaimed a National Monument, and in 1930 Carlsbad
Caverns National Park was created to protect these geologic wonders for future
generations.
My journey through the Caverns only
lasted for a couple of miles, but there is a lot more that isnt open to the public. There are over 30 miles of explored passageways,
and many more chambers, some as exquisitely decorated as the Big Room. The deepest chamber found so far is 1027 feet
below the surface. There are also over 80
smaller caves within the Park boundaries.
I had my choice of the one motel ($69)
or the one campground ($16) in Whites City for the night. The motel was tempting only until I heard the
price, then I headed off to the campground. |
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