G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

Home ] Up ] January 1 ] January 2 ] January 3 ] January 4 ] January 5 ] January 6 ] January 7 ] [ January 8 ] January 9 ] January 10 ] January 11 ] January 12 ] January 13 ] January 14 ] January 15 ] January 16 ] January 17 ] January 18 ] January 19 ] January 20 ] January 21 ] January 22 ] January 23 ] January 24 ] January 25 ] January 26 ] January 27 ] January 28 ] January 29 ] January 30 ] January 31 ]


January 8, 2000

Click on thumbnails
P1080101.jpg (51207 bytes)

P1080102.jpg (49734 bytes)

I left Artesia at 7:40 this morning (1-8) and it was very frosty.  I don’t know what the temperature was, but I do know that despite the sun rising at about 7:00, it was still frosty by the time I reached the city of Carlsbad just after 10:00.  Along the way, I took a photo of an albino tarantula. Well maybe it was just a frosted weed.  After brunch in Carlsbad, I headed toward White’s City, the gateway town to Carlsbad Caverns National Park.  Just south of town, I saw and photographed what may have been a “Mother Ship” (big flying saucer) that was headed in the direction of Roswell. Well maybe it was just a cloud.

The reason I left Artesia so early is that I wanted to arrive at the Caverns before 2:00, which is the last time of the day to take the long tour through the natural entrance.  After that, I had until 3:30 to take the elevator down to the “Big Room”, the main attraction of the caverns.  I was doing very well against the clock until I left Carlsbad, then I ran into a fairly stiff headwind.   I felt that I would still be okay if I got to White’s City by 1:00, because it is then only 7 more miles to the Park Headquarters.  I made it there just about 1:00, but then found out that the last 7 miles (really 6.8) were all uphill.   I left at 1:05, then lost a couple more minutes when I had to stop to shed my fleece jacket because I was getting too warm going uphill.  I peddled, looked at my watch, peddled some more, etc., etc.  At 1:45, I figured I only had only about a mile and a half to go, but the road took a horseshoe bend and got steeper.  I thought about settling for the elevator trip, but didn’t really want to do that, so peddled on as fast as I could.  At 1:52, I reached the 6-mile post and needed a brief rest break, but didn’t take it.  I pushed over the top and went the last quarter of a mile downhill to the Visitor Center.  I leaned my bike against the bike rack and glanced at my watch – 1:58.  I virtually ran to the entrance, through the lobby and to the roped-off ticket counter.  As I stepped between the ropes, a Park Ranger picked up a microphone and announced that there would be no more natural entrance tours for the day.  I’m not sure what kind of look crossed my face, but the ranger looked at me and said not to worry, I was okay.  So over 6 hours after leaving Artesia, I arrived at Carlsbad Caverns with all of about 2 seconds to spare.   Whew!  

Click on thumbnail

P1080107.jpg (58081 bytes)

Most of the cavern tours at Carlsbad these days are self-guided.   The paths are paved, there are numerous (lit) displays, and there is just enough light to see where you are going.  I especially wanted to take the tour through the natural entrance to more fully appreciate the depth of the caverns.  It took me a mile or so of steady downhill walking (through some really nice scenery) to reach the “Big Room” which is about 750 feet below the surface.  The Big Room really is big – it covers over 14 acres (largest cavern room in the Western Hemisphere), and really rates a giant WOW in my book.  A mile

long trail winds through scenic splendor after scenic splendor – stalactites, stalagmites, soda straws, draperies, flowstone, columns, cave pearls and much more.   The lighting is beautifully done – all indirect, and highlighting everything from small displays of soda straws to the ceiling of the cavern.  It’s a virtual fairyland down there – certainly one of the most beautiful 14-acre spots in the entire world.  The Big Room is also wheelchair accessible, and so open that no one should feel claustrophobia.  I took a lot of photos, but they just won’t do justice to this place.

Carlsbad Caverns Photographs, Set A

TN00038A.GIF (1712 bytes)

Carlsbad Caverns Photographs, Set B

TN00038A.GIF (1712 bytes)

The creation of Carlsbad Caverns began 250 million years ago when a 400-mile-long reef was formed in an inland sea that covered this region.  When the sea evaporated, the reef was buried and remained so until just a few million years ago when the area uplifted and then erosion exposed the reef rock.  Rainwater then began to seep down into cracks in the reef and started the process of dissolving the limestone and forming the underground chambers.  The process was aided by hydrogen sulfide gas migrating upward and forming sulfuric acid as it contacted the groundwater.  Millions of years later, the huge passageways were formed, and the “decorating” process began.  This was (and still is) literally a drop by drop process.  As rainwater percolates through the bedrock, it dissolves a little limestone, absorbing a bit of the basic ingredient needed to build most cave formations – the mineral calcite.   As the drop finally enters the cavern, carbon dioxide escapes into the cave air, and the dissolved calcite is deposited in crystal form.  After hundreds of thousands of years and billions of drops, thousands of fantastic formations have been created.  I can testify that the process is still at work, as I was dripped on several times during my tour.

The other interesting aspect of Carlsbad Caverns is its bat population.  Hundreds of thousands of Mexican Free-tail bats live in the Caverns during the summer months, sleeping during the day on the cavern ceiling, packed as tightly as 300 per square foot (and I thought my tent was crowded).  Each night, at dusk, they make a mass exodus from the natural entrance to forage for food (moths and other flying insects) in the Pecos and Black River valleys.  This mass exodus has become a major viewing attraction for Park visitors over the years.  In fact, it was this nightly bat exodus that led to the discovery of the cavern in the late 1800s.  The cowboys who made the discovery also soon learned that there was an economic value to the cavern.  Tourists, you think – nope, bat guano.  Between 1903 and 1923, over 100,000 tons of guano was excavated from the cavern to be used as fertilizer, mostly in the orange groves of California.  One of the early cave miners, Jim White, began to explore the caverns in his spare time, and soon told stories of fascinating underground formations.  His stories were viewed with skepticism, however, until a photographer accompanied him on a trip into the cavern in 1915, and the resulting photos were displayed in the nearby town of Carlsbad.  In 1923, the U.S. Department of the Interior sent its own inspector to determine if the Carlsbad Cavern was indeed an outstanding natural scenic wonder.  The inspector, Robert Holly, wrote in his final report:  “…I am wholly conscious of the feebleness of my efforts to convey in words the deep conflicting emotions, the feeling of fear and awe, and the desire for an inspired understanding of the Divine Creator’s work which presents to the human eye such a complex aggregate of natural wonders….”  Later that year, Carlsbad Cavern was proclaimed a National Monument, and in 1930 Carlsbad Caverns National Park was created to protect these geologic wonders for future generations.

My journey through the Caverns only lasted for a couple of miles, but there is a lot more that isn’t open to the public.  There are over 30 miles of explored passageways, and many more chambers, some as exquisitely decorated as the Big Room.  The deepest chamber found so far is 1027 feet below the surface.  There are also over 80 smaller caves within the Park boundaries. 

I had my choice of the one motel ($69) or the one campground ($16) in White’s City for the night.  The motel was tempting only until I heard the price, then I headed off to the campground.

Back Up Next

Home Who is Gary? Disclaimer

Copyright © 1999 - 2000 PBS 45 & 49
All rights reserved.
E-mail questions or comments to web editor, rebecca@wneo.pbs.org
This page was last updated on 10/24/02.