G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

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January 22, 2000

On January 22, I stumbled upon (inadvertently peddled into?) a real gem of a town by the name of Goliad.  There I found an eighteenth century mission and presidio, the birthplace of Texas ranching, the birthplace of a Mexican war hero, a genuine “hanging tree” and the site of a massacre that became the much lesser known part of the Texas battle cry in their war for independence.  That’s not bad for a town of just 1946 people. 

I think I’ll begin with the mission and the presidio.  In 1749, the Mission Espiritu Santo de Zuniga was built here at the site of an Aranama Indian Village.  The Spanish were intent on converting the native population to Christianity, so generally located their missions with that purpose in mind.  The Presidio La Bahia was also built here at the same time, located just a half mile south of the mission.  Presidios were Spanish forts, and were built basically to protect the missions from hostile Indians.  During its early days, the mission controlled a vast amount of land (hundreds of thousands of acres) – essentially everything between the San Antonio and Guadalupe Rivers.  It also owned approximately 40,000 head of cattle (until the Indians started running off with them), giving rise to the notion that this was indeed the birthplace of Texas cattle ranching.  The mission and presidio remained in operation through the 1830s, although Mexican soldiers occupied the presidio after Mexico won its independence from Spain in 1821.  In 1848, after Texas had won its own independence from Mexico, the town of Goliad rebuilt the principal structures of the mission for use as public school facilities.  Later still, Aranama College, one of the first institutions established in Texas for the education of Spanish-speaking Texans, used the buildings.

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In the late 1800s, the mission and presidio gradually fell to ruin.  Not until the early 1930s, did the State of Texas take an interest in the mission, and by a special act of the state legislature create the Goliad State Historical Park.  Beginning in 1937, local citizens and members of the Civilian Conservation Corps performed restoration work, and The National Park Service provided expertise and supervision.  The result is exceptional – a restoration that doesn’t look like one. I toured the buildings, grounds and museum. The presidio was also restored (in the 1960s), and is owned and maintained by the Catholic Church. I didn’t have enough time to take a tour, but rode around the outside. 

Literally next to the presidio, is the birthplace of Mexican General Ignacio Zaragoza, one of the greatest military heroes of Mexico.  He was born in Goliad in 1829 and led the Mexican army at the Battle of Pueblo on May 5, 1862, where his outnumbered forces defeated a French army of intervention.  May 5, known as Cinco de Mayo, is a Mexican national holiday, and is celebrated in Goliad as well. 

Downtown Goliad is charming.  The courthouse sits on a square block in the middle of town and is surrounded by numerous buildings dating from the late 1800s.  I found it particularly interesting that the town did not cut down its old trees when streets were widened and paved in the 20th century – rather it just paved around them and provided some directional arrows for motorists (and cyclists). One old oak tree on the north lawn of the courthouse is known as the “Hanging Tree” and is a Texas Historic Landmark.  At various times between 1846 and 1870, this tree served as the site of court sessions.  Death sentences pronounced by the court were carried out immediately with a rope and a strong limb of the tree.  I guess there wasn’t any Court of Appeals at the time!

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Well finally to the battle cry of the Texas fight for independence.  “Remember the Alamo!  Remember Goliad!”  That’s the way it really went – at least until Hollywood dropped the part about Goliad.  Most everyone knows something about the Alamo.  Colonel Travis, Davy Crockett, Jim Bowie and several hundred other Texans and Americans (aiding the Texans in their fight for independence) were overwhelmed and killed at the Alamo Mission in San Antonio on March 6, 1836.  They were defeated by Mexican troops under the command of General (and Dictator and self proclaimed “Napoleon of the West”) Antonio Lopez De Santa Anna. 

Just two weeks later another strong Mexican force, under the command of General Jose Urrea, surrounded Texas troops led by Colonel James W. Fannin as they were attempting to withdraw from Goliad to Victoria.  Hopelessly outnumbered and short of food and water, Colonel Fannin elected to negotiate surrender following the first day of battle.  He reached agreement with General Urrea, assuring that the men’s lives would be spared and that they would be treated fairly as prisoners of war.  Colonel Fannin and his men were taken back to Goliad where they were held as prisoners at the Presidio La Bahia. 

However, when word of the battle and surrender reached General Santa Anna, he ordered that the captured men be executed.  On March 27, Palm Sunday, they were marched out of the presidio in three groups and massacred by Mexican soldiers.  In all, Colonel Fannin and 342 of his men were shot to death.  Three doctors were spared because of their profession, a Mexican woman known as the “Angel of Goliad” saved 25 men (no details known), and approximately 30 men escaped by feigning death in front of the firing squads or fleeing through the woods.

Less than a month later, on April 21, 1836, Texans won the decisive battle of the revolution at San Jacinto, soundly defeating General Santa Anna and gaining their independence.  Their battle cry: “Remember the Alamo!  Remember Goliad!

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I think by the time I reached Goliad, I was in east Texas.  The event took place just about where Interstate 37 passes between San Antonio and Corpus Christi.  The low hills and Pricklypear cacti suddenly disappeared, and were replaced by flat land (coastal plain) and beautiful farmland.

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