G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

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January 18, 2000

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The following day (1-18) turned out to be a great day.  There were no National Parks, no spectacular scenery, and just one point of interest, but the sun was warm, the wind was calm, the hills were modest and the traffic was light.

As I left Sanderson, I also left the mountains of west Texas.  They turned into rolling hills, providing a scenic, but not difficult, path to Seminole Canyon State Park near Comstock.  Today was my last sight of western mountains with their barren, rocky tops, and I will miss them.

The campground at Seminole Canyon was nice.  It sits on a knoll west of the canyon and affords a beautiful view of the sun setting behind the western mountains. I just sat at my picnic table until the last vestiges of red were gone and the final streak of blue was fading to black.  Then after a shower, I took a walk out into the desert beneath a nearly full moon, saw a shadowed jackrabbit and heard crickets chirping all around.  Today was the end of the eighth month of my journey, but I still have four months to go, and I’m still greatly enjoying what I’m doing.  I still believe that this journey will set the direction for the rest of my life.

The point of interest for the day was in Langtry – the saloon and courtroom of Judge Roy Bean – The Law West of the Pecos.   I’m not talking about two separate buildings, mind you.  Rather, the Judge owned a saloon (and billiard hall) and held court in the saloon, or on the porch if the weather was nice, as needed. He was one of the most

colorful characters of the Old West, and one of the most unconventional judges to convene a court anytime, anywhere.  He only owned one law book (the 1879 Revised Statutes of Texas), and seldom referred to it.  He dispensed justice as he saw fit, and a typical sentence was “a $30 fine [which went in the Judge’s pocket] and a round of drinks for the jury” (which, of course, also went in the Judge’s pocket).  His favorite “line” seems to have been “Court’s adjourned – and the bar is open.”

Some legends cite Roy Bean as a “hanging judge” (and that was certainly my perception), but there is no record that he ever sentenced a man to be hanged.  Rather, his harshest sentence was to fine a man of every cent and valuable (including his gun) and expel him from Langtry with the threat of the noose should he ever show up again.

Tales of the Judge were told so often around the Old West that he became a legend in his own time.  Many of these tales were pure fiction, but some certainly had basis in fact.  One example of historical fact is his successful promotion of a prize fight (Maher-Fitzsimmons) in February, 1896 in defiance of U.S. and Mexican law, which at the time forbade this kind of activity.  He staged the fight on a sandbar in the middle of the Rio Grande River, just a couple of blocks from his home in Langtry, but out of reach of the authorities.

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I got a laugh when I crossed the Pecos River east of Langtry.  It’s a beautiful canyon with a high bridge on U.S. 90 that must be nearly 200 feet above the shallow, meandering river.  There is a sign at each end of the bridge that says “No Diving from Bridge.”  Duh!

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