G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

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February 26, 2000

The next day (2-26) I rode the rest of the way into Key West – a very pretty ride of about 70 miles with lots of green water and blue sky to look at all day.

Click on bicyclist to see more photographs. 

As I was nearing Key West, I heard a thunderous voice out of the sky proclaim “He should be about right here by now,” and watched as a giant red pushpin descended from above and stuck into a small (and fortunately uninhabited) island just a couple of miles away.  I really need to talk to the folks at the Home Station (WNEO) about not tracking my daily progress on their map – somebody could get hurt out there!

Click on thumbnails to see full photographs.

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I got to Key West about 3:00 which gave me time to set up camp, then ride around town for awhile doing all of the “tourist” things.  First, I located the home of Ernest Hemingway who lived in Key West from 1928 to 1940.  Supposedly, it was only by accident that he stayed here in the first place.  As the story goes, he was returning from Europe and was supposed to pick up a car in Key West, but the car was delayed for a few weeks, and in the meantime Hemingway fell in love with the town and decided to stay.  Many say that the years he spent in Key West were the most important and influential in his life.  Since I visited Monterey and then read some Steinbeck, I think I’ll now have to read some Hemingway.  Maybe I’ll start with The Old Man in the Sea or For Whom the Bell Tolls

Next I went to the southernmost point in the United States which is just 90 miles north of Cuba, and then on to historic Fort Zachary Taylor.  Construction of Fort Taylor started in 1845, shortly after Florida became a state.  It was to be one in a long string of coastal defense forts stretching from New England to the Gulf of Mexico.  In 1861, the still unfinished fort was captured by Union forces who held it throughout the Civil War as one of the (effective) blockades of commerce to and from the South.  It was finally finished in 1866 and served during the Spanish-American War.  It was modernized several times, but by the end of WWII was obsolete.  Beginning in 1968, volunteers began to excavate the old fort and found among other things the largest collection of Civil War cannons in the U.S.  The site is now a National Historic Landmark.

I noted a number of other interesting things about Key West.  First, there is a high volume of bicycle and moped traffic (mostly rentals).  Second, there is an inordinate number of cats in town, including many of a six-toed variety that supposedly descended from some owned by Hemingway.  Third, there are many chickens running free around downtown.  I saw many of them and heard a few (roosters) in the mornings.

I went to the famous Hog’s Breath Saloon for dinner.  Their slogan is “Hog’s Breath is Better Than No Breath at All.”  Great slogan, but I didn’t think the beer was anything special.

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