I spent the next day (2-24) in Everglades
National Park. The
first (and most important) thing that anyone needs to know about
the Everglades is that it is a river, not a swamp.
It is a very wide and very slow moving river about 50
miles wide and a few inches deep with a flow rate of maybe a
half-mile per day. It
flows from Lake Okeechobee in south central Florida to the Gulf of
Mexico at Florida Bay, and must have the right amount of water at
the right time of year to support the very complex web of life
that exists here.
All went well for 8000 or so years (this land rose
from the ocean just that long ago) until white man began to settle
the area in the 1800s. As
with many other places Ive visited, mankind managed to screw
things up royally in just a short period of time.
The screw-up process began in the 1930s when the first
roads and canals were built in the Everglades.
The resulting undesirable effects gave rise to a movement
to save the Everglades, and in 1947 Everglades National Park
was created for that purpose.
The problem, however, was that the National Park boundaries
covered only one-fifth of the Everglades, and the health of the
Park portion was totally dependent on what happened upstream
of the Park lands. The
real kicker for the Everglades didnt come until the 1960s
when a series of levees and canals were built on the eastern edge
of Everglades National Park to reduce the effects of flood and
drought east of the Park (i.e., support land development).
That diminished the natural river (slough) flow, and
wetland species suffered greatly.
There are now significantly fewer species and total
wildlife than just a few decades ago.
For example, there has been a 93 per cent decline in the
number of wading birds since the 1930s.
More recently, the number of Wood
Storks, an endangered species, has declined from 6000 nesting
birds to just 500 since the 1960s.
Even in Florida Bay, too little freshwater and too much
fertilizer runoff has had a major impact, as its plants and
animals have also begun to die.
Today, the Everglades is considered the nations
most threatened National Park.
This River of Grass, as described by pioneering
conservationist Marjory
Stoneman Douglas in the 1940s, has already lost much of its
grandeur and could just dry up and die.
But that wont happen without a fight.
Not only is the fight underway, but it has taken on a
global perspective. Its been said, and I think fairly so, that if mankind can
save the Everglades, then there is hope for the Earth, and if not,
then there is little hope to save our home planet.
On all the Earth, there is but one Everglades.
Maybe the battle cry to save it should be Remember the
Everglades! Remember
planet Earth!
There has been recent progress in the effort to save
the Everglades. There
is now an agreement to guarantee a certain flow of water
through the Park, and a system of manmade levees and reservoirs
has been developed to provide this water flow.
Congress has also expanded the National Park to protect the
Eastern Shark River Slough a place that historically had the
highest concentrations of wading bird nesting populations in the
Everglades. Also, the
National Park Service and the State of Florida are working
together to enforce existing water quality regulations.
Even if totally successful, all of this effort does not
mean that the Everglades will return to its former glory, as only
a small portion of the historic Everglades lies within the
boundaries of the National Park. But something is better than nothing, and a partially
restored Everglades is the best that we can now hope to leave for
future generations. Personally,
I just hope that I can return in twenty years and see much more
wildlife than I saw today.
There is another sad chapter in the story of Native
Americans that involves the Everglades.
On January 12, 1853, President Andrew Jackson signed
legislation stating It shall be unlawful for any Indian or
Indians to remain within the State of Florida, and any Indian or
Indians
found within the limits of this State, shall be captured
and sent west of the Mississippi River. Members of the Miccosukee
and Seminole
tribes resisted the law and took refuge within the Everglades.
Today some are still here.
The Miccosukee in particular have their own constitution
and form of government, and continue to practice many traditions
of their ancestors. They
call their homeland, the Everglades, Kaahayatle.
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Despite
the environmental concerns, there is much to see in the
Everglades. There
are still many bird species, and you just cant help but
see a few alligators. There are also turtles, snakes and
many kinds of fish. It
is the scenery, however, that is the best part of the
Everglades. There
are no soaring mountains, colorful canyons or towering
waterfalls, but there are hidden ponds, extensive stands
of cypress (white in winter), pine and hardwood trees and
the seemingly endless Rivers of Grass all standing
against a brilliant blue sky and a smattering of white and
gray clouds. Its
a very peaceful and pretty place. |
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Click on bicyclist to see
more photographs.
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Just so my friend David knows Im not simply
taking it easy in the flatlands of Florida,
I leaned my bike against the sign and took a photo
(just like we did in Washington State) when I
crossed Rock Reef Pass on the Park road that goes
to Flamingo.
Note the elevation.
I also got sprinkled on twice today (rare
event), but it actually felt good in the 82 degree
heat, and the sun was back out in five minutes
anyway.
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I found a quotation from Henry David Thoreau at the
Pa-hay-okee Overlook that seems to fit my journey
very well: If you want inner peace, find it in
solitude, not speed.
And if you would find yourself, look to the
land from which you came and to which you go.
I finished the day very well at a restaurant that
offers an all you can eat spaghetti dinner
on Thursday nights.
Life is good.
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