G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

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December 6, 1999

The following morning (12-6) I went back to the Visitor Center at 8:30 since my boat to the island didn’t leave until 11:00.  I got my National Parks passport stamped, spent some time talking with Sandy Kopsick, one of the volunteers at the park, and then watched the film that serves as an introduction to the park.  When I came back out after watching the film, Sandy caught up with me and invited me to dinner with her and husband Jerry.  I readily accepted.  She said they had some interest in cross-country bicycling and would like a chance to talk with me about it.   

I then headed south about five miles to Oxnard harbor to find the Steamship Sunfish.  It turned out to be a nice 35’ motorboat that could accommodate about 25 passengers.  My trip was to be an hour boat ride to Anacapa Island, the nearest of the Channel Islands, with about three hours on the island before returning to Oxnard.  Anacapa is actually made up of three small islets (East-Middle-West) that are inaccessible from each other except by boat.  We were headed for East Anacapa, home of a lighthouse, ranger station and the beautiful arch rock that is the symbol of this National Park.

Channel Islands National Park actually consists of five islands – Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and Santa Barbara – and one mile of ocean surrounding each.  There are three other Channel Islands that are not a part of the National Park.  The U.S. Navy controls San Clemente and San Nicolas, and Santa Catalina is privately owned by a number of enterprises.  Of those within the National Park, Anacapa and Santa Barbara are the two very small ones – each about one square mile in size.  Anacapa is long (about five miles) and very narrow.  Mostly, it is just home to seals and birds.  The western end of the island is “off limits” to all visitors as it is the primary breeding ground for the endangered California Brown Pelican. 

The two large islands are Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa (about 96 and 84 square miles, respectively).  They have abundant fresh water and have been inhabited by mankind for thousands of years.  First were the Chumash Indians who lived here for more than 6000 years.   They were sailors and traders and readily crossed the fifteen or so miles to the mainland to trade with other Indian tribes.  The Spanish arrived here in 1542 and co-existed with the Chumash on the islands for a long number of years.  In the early 1800s, however, the Spanish relocated the Indians to mainland missions to open the islands for ranching.  From 1839 to the 1980s, these islands served as ranch and farm land (cattle, sheep, olives and grapes).   The National Park service is now in the process of removing “introduced” animal species from these islands in order to return them to their natural state.

San Miguel, the westernmost island, is more windswept and harsh than the other islands.  It served as an animal range (sheep, cattle and horses) from the 1850s to the early 1940s, and then as a bombing range from the mid-1940s to the mid-1950s.

The first protection and preservation of these islands came in 1938 when President Franklin D. Roosevelt proclaimed Anacapa and Santa Barbara as Channel Islands National Monument.  In 1976, the U.S. Navy and the National Park Service reached an agreement allowing supervised visitation to San Miguel.  In 1978, a partnership between the Nature Conservancy and the Santa Cruz Island Company provided for the continued protection of that island.  Finally, in 1980, Congress designated the four northern islands, Santa Barbara, and the waters for one nautical mile around each as our 40th National Park.  Later that same year, the waters for six nautical miles around each island were designated as a National Marine Sanctuary.

One very interesting aspect of these islands is how some animal species have evolved a little bit differently than their mainland cousins.  The northern islands were certainly all linked during the last ice age, and may have been connected to the mainland at that time.  If not during the most recent ice age, then the link is from an even older time.  In any event, fox, mice and other land animals became isolated from the mainland species, and have developed slightly different characteristics over these past several thousand years.  The Island Fox, for example, is very similar to the mainland’s Gray Fox, but is smaller – about the size of a house cat.  The foxes prey upon Deer Mice that are slightly larger than their mainland relatives.  Hmm, if this trend continues for a few more millennia, maybe the Deer Mice will be preying on the Island Foxes.   

Click on thumbnails to see full photographs

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Channel Island photographs

Well, enough of all that stuff – back to my trip to Anacapa Island.  We left the calm waters of the harbor and entered the rough waters of the Santa Barbara Channel.  On the way out, the Captain spotted some dolphins and detoured to visit them.  Once we got close, they just flocked to the boat, swimming on all sides, seemingly really enjoying their contact with mankind. There must have been 200 to 300 of them all around us.

We then turned back toward the island, and arrived about 100 feet from the dock, where the Captain gave us the ominous news.  The swells in the sea were running quite high, and he wasn’t sure he could safely land us on and (later) retrieve us from the island.  He said he was going to just sit there for a few minutes and look at the situation.  As he watched, so did the rest of us, and it didn’t come as any surprise to us when he announced a few minutes later that we would not be able to go ashore today.  He said his obligation was to the safety of his passengers, and I am certainly not going to second guess his decision.  So instead of going ashore, we cruised the back (south) side of the east and middle islets where we saw many seals and nesting birds.  Then we turned around and headed back across the channel to Oxnard.  Although I was disappointed by not being able to walk around the island, I did at least spend an hour or so within the confines of the National Park, and did come back with a lot of nice sea level photographs.  (You can tell they were taken from a boat because the ocean is “tipped” in some of them.)

This is certainly another one of the Parks that I would like to come back to and spend some significant time exploring.  I think a couple of days on Anacapa, a week or two on Santa Cruz, another week or two on Santa Rosa, a few days on San Miguel and a day on Santa Barbara ought to do it!

The day ended on a fine note with dinner at Sandy and Jerry’s home.  Terrific split pea soup, Sandy.  We talked about biking, hiking, sailing, kids, grandchildren and other fun things.  I had a great time.   They may get a chance to ride cross-country one of these days.  If not, then one of their grown daughters has a definite interest in doing so.  Jerry drove me back to the campground in his van, so I wouldn’t have to ride in the dark again. 

It was another great day in the middle of a great adventure.

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