G.A.S.P.

(Great Adventures to Scenic Places)

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April 16, 2000

It did rain during the night, but by morning (4-16) the skies were clear and the air was warm.  We had a pancake breakfast at the KOA, then headed off to Gettysburg to spend the day at the National Military Park.

The morning’s first stop was the Visitor Center, which has an Electric Map presentation that every visitor to Gettysburg should see before taking the driving tour of the battlefield.  The colored lights on the map provide a great overview of troop locations and movements during the three-day battle.  The Visitor Center also houses a terrific museum of Civil War stories, equipment, uniforms and artifacts including a number of pieces of furniture with bullet holes from the fighting that took place here.

We then spent the entire afternoon, with a break for lunch, driving and walking around the battlefield.  I had never been here before, but I was quite familiar with names of places that I would see on this day: Little Round Top, Devil’s Den, Peach Orchard and the open fields of Pickett’s Charge.

The battle of Gettysburg took place July 1–3, 1863 and climaxed General Lee’s second attempt to invade the north.  Following his victory at Chancellorsville in June, Lee had moved his Army of Northern Virginia westward through the Blue Ridge Mountains, then north into Maryland and Pennsylvania.  They were following the Union Army of the Potomac under General Joseph Hooker, but Lee didn’t quite know his adversary’s whereabouts.  The two armies came into contact by chance at Gettysburg on June 30 setting the stage for the largest and deadliest battle to ever take place on American soil.

On the morning of July 1, Confederate troops opened the battle by attacking Union troops on McPherson Ridge west of town.  The Federal forces held their ground until late afternoon when they were finally forced back to Cemetery Hill just south of town.  During the night, the Federal lines were reinforced as Union commander General George Meade arrived in Gettysburg with the bulk of his army.

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Peach Orchard

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Wheatfield

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Devil's Den

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Little Round Top

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Pickett's Charge

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By the following morning the armies were lined up in two sweeping arcs nearly a mile apart – Union forces of 96,693 men on Cemetery Ridge and Confederate forces of 70,136 men on Seminary Ridge.  Lee initiated the battle by ordering an attack on both Union flanks.  On the Union left flank (south), James Longstreet’s attack resulted in furious fighting at the Peach Orchard, the Wheatfield and Devil’s Den. Union forces were driven back all along the left flank, but managed to hold the strategically important hill known as Little Round Top.  This happened only because Meade’s Chief Engineer, Brigadier General Gouverneur K. Warren, alerted Union officers to the Confederate threat and brought Federal reinforcements to defend the hill (literally minutes before the rebel troops arrived at the base).  On the Union right flank (north), Richard S. Ewell’s Confederate troops managed to capture a portion of Culp’s Hill, but were repulsed elsewhere. 

General Meade met with his staff officers during the evening and concluded that Lee would probably attack the center of his line the following day.  Despite having been pushed back during each of the first two days of the battle, Meade was determined to stay and fight the following day. 

On July 3, Ewell renewed his attack on Culp’s Hill while Lee turned his attention to the center of the Union line.  In the afternoon his artillery opened a bombardment of the Federal lines on Cemetery Ridge and Cemetery Hill.  Union forces answered with their own artillery and for two hours the armies blasted away at each other.  The cannons made a lot of noise, but did little to soften up the Union lines.  Lee then sent 12,000 Confederate troops across open fields toward the center of the Federal lines in an attack known as “Pickett’s Charge.”  The 7000 Union soldiers massed around the Copse of Trees, The Angle and the Brian Barn repulsed their charge, however, with artillery, rifles and hand-to-hand combat.  This biggest moment in the biggest battle of the war had gone to the Federal forces.  As Lee’s troops staggered back to their lines, Lee rode out to meet them, comfort them and tell them “It’s all my fault.”

The following day, Lee began a slow retreat across Pennsylvania and Maryland and back into Virginia.  His army had suffered very heavy losses and his remaining troops were physically and spiritually exhausted.  The Civil War would drag on for two more years, but never again would Lee attempt a major offensive against Union forces.

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When the two great armies marched away from Gettysburg, they left behind more than 51,000 soldiers who had been killed, wounded or were missing in battle.  Two weeks later when Pennsylvania Governor Andrew Curtin visited Gettysburg, wounded and dying soldiers were crowded into nearly every building in town.  Most of the dead soldiers had been hastily buried in inadequate graves and some had not been buried at all.  The situation so distressed the Governor that he commissioned a local attorney, David Wills, to purchase land for a proper burial ground for the dead Union soldiers.  Within four months, reinterment began on 17 acres that were to become Gettysburg National Cemetery.

On November 19, 1863, dignitaries gathered in Gettysburg to dedicate this ground as a National Cemetery.  The principal speaker was Edward Everett, the best orator of his day, and he delivered a well-received two-hour oration, “rich in historical detail and classical allusion.”  President Abraham Lincoln, who had been asked to make “a few appropriate remarks,” followed Everett at the podium.  Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address consisted of just 272 words and took about two minutes to deliver.  The President stepped down from the podium believing that the audience hadn’t much cared for his remarks, when in fact they were standing in stunned silence.  His masterful speech had managed in so few words to provide meaning to the sacrifice of the dead and inspiration to the living. 

Sarah, Nick and I took the 18-mile self-guided auto tour around the battlefield.  The brochure says it takes about three hours, but we spent about five as we stopped the car a lot and took short hikes to read signs, view statues, look-over parts of the battlefield and tour the cemetery.  We had a great time. 

Click on Bicyclist to see more Gettysburg Photos:

The only negative about Gettysburg is what can best be described as the “god-awful observation tower” that rises behind the cemetery.  It was built a number of years ago as a private enterprise and was highly controversial from the start.  Someone has made a lot of money from it, but it really 'uglifies' the whole battlefield.  I made sure all day that none of my photographs included the tower, but it “got to me” anyway and I just had to express my feelings toward it at the end of the day.

An interesting coincidence regarding the battle at Gettysburg is that the very day General Lee accepted defeat here and began his retreat to Virginia (July 4, 1863), the Confederates also surrendered Vicksburg to General Ulysses S. Grant following a two-month siege. 

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